Kaziranga - A Tryst with the Unicorn

Tryst: A meeting is when people get together for any reason. But when they are sneaking to meet, notably as secret lovers, it's called a tryst.

The current Pandemic situation has put paid to many a livelihood, not to mention numerous plans to travel! When the family was getting completely restless, we tried doing local trips within the city. However access to the favourite location was cutoff due to a dispute between the Forest Department and the Municipal Body.

Come 2021, we were hoping for an improvement in the situation and they did. Trains and Planes started to operate and places were begining to open up to visitors. The inherent fear of the situation still created enough uncertainities that a couple of travel plans had to be dropped.

Finally a chance conversation with Kesava and Santhosh of Birdwing https://www.birdwing.in threw up the opportunity for a trip to the NorthEastern part of India, more specifically - Kaziranga.

TRIP TIP:With no clear information available on the Covid protocols across states, we decided to get ourselves tested at home and carry the test results with us during the travel. The test report proved to be a huge bonus, with us breezing through the exit process at Guwahati Airport, while those who did not have the report had to go through a series of sessions, including filling out a form, having themselves examined before they could go out of the Airport - A process that took upwards of 30 minutes in most cases.

With the cabs being pre-arranged, we settled in for the ride to Kaziranga. With a quick stop for lunch, we reached well in time to go on the afternoon Safari ride; our first of the trip. The cabs went away after dropping off the luggage at the resort, while we were inside the Park.

An Introduction to Kaziranga: The park is spread across three districts in the Indian state of Assam—the Kaliabor subdivision of Nagaon district, Bokajan sub division of Karbi Anglong and the Bokakhat subdivision of Golaghat district. The park is approximately 40 km (25 mi) in length from east to west, and 13 km (8 mi) in breadth from north to south. Kaziranga covers an area of 378 km2 (146 sq mi), with approximately 51.14 km2 (20 sq mi) lost to erosion. A total addition of 429 km2 (166 sq mi) along the present boundary of the park has been made and designated with separate national park status to provide extended habitat for increasing the population of wildlife or, as a corridor for safe movement of animals to Karbi Anglong Hills. Elevation ranges from 40 m (131 ft) to 80 m (262 ft). The park area is circumscribed by the Brahmaputra River, which forms the northern and eastern boundaries, and the Mora Diphlu, which forms the southern boundary. Other notable rivers within the park are the Diphlu and Mora Dhansiri.

Four main types of vegetation exist in this park; alluvial inundated grasslands, alluvial savanna woodlands, tropical moist mixed deciduous forests, and tropical semi-evergreen forests. Approximate coverage by vegetation is: tall grasses 41%, short grasses 11%, open jungle 29%, swamps 4%, rivers and water bodies 8%, and sand 6%.

There is a difference in altitude between the eastern and western areas of the park, with the western side being at a lower altitude. The western reaches of the park are dominated by grasslands. Tall elephant grass is found on higher ground, while short grasses cover the lower grounds surrounding the beels or flood-created ponds. Annual flooding, grazing by herbivores, and controlled burning maintain and fertilize the grasslands and reeds. Common tall grasses are sugarcanes, spear grass, elephant grass, and the common reed. Amidst the grasses, providing cover and shade are scattered trees—dominant species including kumbhi, Indian gooseberry, the cotton tree (in savanna woodlands), and elephant apple (in inundated grasslands).

Kaziranga contains significant breeding populations of 35 mammalian species. The park has the distinction of being home to the world's largest population of the Greater One-Horned Rhinoceros , wild Asiatic water buffalo and eastern swamp deer. Significant populations of large herbivores include indian elephants, gaur and sambar. Small herbivores include the Indian muntjac, wild boar, and hog deer. The One-Horned rhinoceros, Royal Bengal Tiger, Asian elephant, wild water buffalo and swamp deer are collectively known as 'Big Five' of Kaziranga.

Safaris at Kaziranga do not have the element of mad rush (at least this trip had none!!) No racing across the park in search of a tiger! All the vehicles in the park were running at a sedate pace and this in itself was remarkable. So all you tiger fanatics, it would do you good to keep this in mind. 

In any case if you do get a tiger sighting, consider yourself extremely lucky!! With the grass still green this year, the usual practice of burning the undergrowth did not happen and as a result despite having close quarter alarm calls, we did not even get a glimpse of a predator.

Having said this, the Park is by no means a dull affair. Every turn, every corner seem to have some activity or the other, whether it is a Gray Headed Fishing Eagle on its kill or running into a Tusker at a Watch Tower or a Monitor Lizard crossing the road. Take a look at the pics and enjoy a glimpse of what we experienced over a 4 day period at a piece of heaven called Kaziranga National Park.

Like all vacations, this one did have its own downsides as well. This time it was the resort. Blame it on the Pandemic if you will, but the resort although old and quaint was poorly maintained. 

Absence of proper staff meant that food; although tasty, was a homely affair and rarely on time. However for the serious wildlifers, this should not be a hurdle at all. Afterall we only look for a safe and relatively clean place to rest while we ponder over the just completed trip and anticipate next one into the Park.

All in all, a wonderful time spent with some new and some old pals with hilarious anecdotes over cups  of the local brew.

When its time to return back to your routine, do remember to pack some of the local Chai patti (Tea Leaves). I did and I'm enjoying a cuppa while I write this blog. Signing off until the next time!! 

Ciao!! Stay safe and stay healthy!! Keeping a safe distance from fellow humans and wild critters will ensure that Safety element. Do remember to wear your mask even if you see no one else wearing it. It is for your own safety.

Thanks for your time!! God Bless!! 

Be back soon with the next episode!!

The Desert Sojourn Part 1

Its been a while since I've been here or for that matter anywhere. The mailer from Darter was just the trigger needed to kick up the wanderlust again and the preps began. With the Office sorted out and the tickets booked, I was looking forward to a splendid couple of days out in the land of the Romantic mystique!!

A last minute development added a small element of drama to my travel plans, however doing little to impact the overall schedule. I had decided to travel to Tal Chapar by train from Delhi. Boarded the Salasar Express headed to Bhagat Ki Kothi. 

It was a beautiful morning belying the recent smog filled mornings. Nice crisp and cold morning. The train departed about 20 minutes late, which seemed in line with the routine. I settled in with a nice cuppa tea and was stunned to see the filth and garbage along the tracks. What was unbelievable was that the people who lived in the midst didn't seem bothered one bit. People were packed in like Sardines in double storeyed tenements.

Once out of Delhi, the scenery became much better and easy on the eye. 

The downside being very poor choice of catering onboard the train, travelling along with expensive equipment meant that getting down at stations to get food was ruled out. Thank Goodness for some foresight and the packed sandwiches.

Pretty soon it was 30 minutes past 1 in the afternoon and time to get off the train. Was met by Shreeram at the station and soon we were off to the Forest Department Guest house, where we were scheduled to stay over the next three days. Lovely accommodation to say the least, considering that we were literally in the middle of nowhere. 

Soon enough the other members of the group made their way into the guest house and we were all set to move out into the grassland soon after lunch. 

Tal Chapar literally translates to the plains of Chapar village, is a sanctuary located in the Churu district of Northwestern Rajasthan in the Shekhawati region of India. It is known for blackbucks and is also home to a variety of birds. The sanctuary is on the fringe of the Great Indian Desert and situated on road from Ratangarh to Sujangarh. It is a flat saline depression locally known as a "tal" that has a unique ecosystem in the heart of the Thar Desert. Tal Chapar has an open grassland with scattered Acacia and Prosopis trees which give it an appearance of a typical savanna.

The geology of the zone is obscured by the wind blown over-burden. Some small hillocks and exposed rocks of slate and quartzite are found in the western side of the sanctuary. The area between hillocks and the sanctuary constitutes the watershed area of the sanctuary. The whole sanctuary used to be flooded by water during the heavy rains but with salt mining going on in the watershed, hardly any rain falling on the hillocks reaches the sanctuary. 

In the Tal Chhapar Sanctuary, a special type of grass is found. This grass is called Mothiya locally. The word "Mothiya" comes come from the word "Moti" or from the Hindi word for pearl. The shape of the seed of this grass is like very fine round shaped pearls. Mothiya has a very sweet taste. People enjoy eating it, but it is found in very small quantities. Production is only a few kilograms every season. Mothiya is also food for blackbucks and birds.

Over the next couple of days, we were out on the grassland and here is a glimpse of what we saw....

The highlight of the trip being a battle between two Nilgai Bulls. A rare sight even for the locals, we were treated to a front row view of this battle. 

Here is a Video Link of the battle...

The Battle

Part 2 will showcase the trip to Jor Beed, but that's for another day.

Thanks for your time!!